Ginkgo Ginkgo biloba
Reviewed June 2026 · how we check this
A living fossil unchanged for 200 million years, the ginkgo is a tough, long-lived shade tree with unmistakable fan-shaped leaves that turn brilliant butter-yellow in fall. Slow to establish but nearly indestructible once rooted, it shrugs off pollution, pests, and poor soil — a true plant-it-and-forget-it specimen.
Light
Ginkgo demands full sun — at least six hours of direct light a day, and the more the better. In open, sunny ground it develops the strong, upright leader and broad, eventually rounded crown the species is known for, plus the most vivid fall color. Planted in shade or crowded under larger trees it grows thin, lopsided, and disappointingly sparse, leaning toward whatever light it can find. Because mature trees reach 50–80 feet, give a sapling a site with all-day sun and room to spread; an open lawn, a wide parkway strip, or a south-facing corner well away from the house and overhead wires is ideal.Watering
A newly planted ginkgo needs steady moisture to grow the deep root system that makes it so drought-proof later. Water deeply once a week through the first two or three growing seasons — roughly 10–15 gallons soaked slowly over the root zone, more in heat or sandy soil — wetting the soil a foot down rather than sprinkling the surface. A 2–3 inch ring of mulch (kept off the trunk) holds that moisture and buffers the roots. Once established, a ginkgo tolerates real drought and rarely needs watering except in extended dry spells. It dislikes constantly soggy ground, so let the surface dry between deep soakings.Soil & potting
Ginkgo is famously unfussy about soil and thrives where pickier trees sulk — it handles clay, sand, compacted urban ground, road salt, and a wide pH range from acidic to alkaline. What it genuinely needs is reasonable drainage and depth, so its taproot and anchoring roots can plunge down. Avoid spots that stay waterlogged after rain. At planting, dig a hole two to three times the width of the rootball but no deeper than it, set the root flare at or just above grade, and backfill with the native soil rather than rich amendments so roots venture outward into the surrounding ground.Humidity & temperature
Ginkgo is exceptionally cold-hardy, comfortable through USDA zones 3–8 and surviving winter lows around -20°F (-29°C) once established. Atmospheric humidity is a non-issue — it grows happily in muggy Southern summers and arid Western air alike. The tree leafs out relatively late in spring, which conveniently dodges most late frosts, and it withstands urban heat, drought, and pollution better than almost any shade tree. In the warmest zones (9 in the West) it still performs, though fall color is most reliable where autumn nights turn genuinely cool.Fertilizing
Established ginkgos in decent ground rarely need feeding and grow steadily on their own. For a young tree you'd like to push along, apply a balanced slow-release tree fertilizer in early spring as growth begins, scattered over the root zone and watered in — follow the label rate for the trunk diameter. Skip feeding in the first season after planting so roots establish before top growth is forced. Avoid heavy nitrogen, which spurs soft, leggy shoots at the expense of a strong frame. An annual topdressing of compost over the root area is gentler and usually all a maturing ginkgo wants.Pruning & maintenance
Ginkgo needs little pruning and resents heavy cutting. Prune in late winter while the tree is dormant, focusing on structure: remove dead, damaged, or crossing branches and, on a young tree, select a single dominant central leader so it builds the sturdy, well-spaced scaffold of a classic specimen. Make clean cuts just outside the branch collar and never top the tree. Young ginkgos can look gawky and open for years before filling out — resist the urge to shape them tightly, as patience rewards you with a naturally elegant crown. Always plant named male cultivars to avoid the notoriously foul-smelling fruit of female trees.Propagation
Ginkgo is most often grown from seed or, for guaranteed males, from grafted or cutting-grown nursery saplings. Fresh seed needs its fleshy outer coat removed (wear gloves — it smells terrible and can irritate skin), then a couple of months of cold, moist stratification in the fridge before sowing in deep pots come spring; germination is slow and seedlings are an unknown sex for 20+ years. For a predictable, fruitless tree, buy a named male cultivar such as 'Autumn Gold' or 'Princeton Sentry' and plant the sapling in fall or early spring, keeping it watered through its first seasons while the roots take hold.Common problems
Through the year
Spring
Leafs out late, often after other trees — don't assume it's dead. Apply slow-release fertilizer to young trees, refresh mulch, and water new plantings deeply as growth begins.
Summer
Active growth. Keep young trees on a deep weekly watering schedule through heat; established trees handle drought on their own and need little attention.
Fall
The main event — leaves turn uniform golden-yellow and often drop almost all at once in a striking carpet. Reduce watering as the tree heads toward dormancy.
Winter
Fully dormant and bare. Ideal window for any structural pruning, and the tree shrugs off hard cold with no protection once established.
Companion planting
Underplant the wide, sunny root zone with tough, shade-tolerant groundcovers and spring bulbs that finish before the canopy fills in — daffodils, crocus, and hostas all coexist happily with a ginkgo's deep, non-competitive roots.
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